I do the same thing, but do it using the HSB sliders instead of the color picker. I always keep the HSB sliders open, so it's a bit faster than opening the color picker and I like that saturation and brightness are isolated so I can tweak them quickly.
The other thing I do is bump the hue a bit. If it's a cool shadow, I'll change the hue to a slightly cooler hue and do the opposite for a warm highlight.
I love your videos.. I am sad to miss a couple of them cause I don't have more than 24 hrs per day :). This is very very valuable for all you newbies I highly recommend also you might want to pick up Richard Keys "Color Theory The Mechanics of Color" If you can find it. He puts all this in very straightforward means for colors and lighting. Talks about primary, secondary, and complimentary and all that other stuff that you need to have in the back of your head when you are painting in oils or acrylics and trying to blend them. "The more time that you waste the less time that you make money."
Excellent. I love how you cover the most basic basics. So much of this stuff is just taken for granted in other tutorials. I've been sharing these with a lot of people who are just starting out. Wish I'd had them a few years ago.
Another thing to note about color picking and moving in saturation and relative value, and something for another tutorial, is the idea of color temperature, and what happens to say.. a red color as it approaches a hot highlight, or a flame etc...
Anyway.. very nice site and I bought the commercial sets you put out already. keep it up.
Fantastic site! I was just introduced to it today.
HSB is great for finding relative value and saturation but I've always found it troublesome when dealing with relative hue and temperature.
I recently stumbled upon the good old rgb sliders from the olden days. After having dealt with real world paint they seem far more intuitive for that kind of digital color mixing. I've yet to try out using those sliders for a digital painting now, but I'm looking forward to it.
You can play a similar game by laying down what you think (or can colour picker from the image) the local colour is and then try and pick a layer blending mode and colour to try and replicate cold shadows (for example multiply layer 80% blue) or warm light (for example overlay layer 50% orange). Its less traditional* and more digital and probably a bit harder but its quite good because it is more similar to the way light is actually working.
*I know you can glaze etc but for the sake of argument its not really the same.
Thanks for sharing this stuff I eventually having a hard time about colors and how to mix it..well I might as well apply this when doing some photoshop things in my office, anyway it was a great guide so far.
Any time you are interested in buying a replica rolex watches for sale, how would you make outside whether you're obtaining an genuine or basically a duplicate? Considered as the understanding concerning imported names and also costly Yachtmaster replica this sort of as replica Milgauss watches in India.
Heya, I am just a beginner, but what I like to do when picking out different levels of satuation and light/shadow of an anchor color, it helps using the exact control points in the color picker menu.
What I am referring to is the "H:", "S:" and "B:" that you can enable or disable in the color picker.
This way, you can more accurately use your anchor point and then like Matt explained find the various levels of satuation, light/shadow or even hue that you are looking for.
Love this site, by the way, it is definitely helping me breathe more calmly as I am an utter novice and getting into both traditional and digital drawing is definitely overwhelming me at times! Thanks =)
Reader Comments (10)
Great post!
I do the same thing, but do it using the HSB sliders instead of the color picker. I always keep the HSB sliders open, so it's a bit faster than opening the color picker and I like that saturation and brightness are isolated so I can tweak them quickly.
The other thing I do is bump the hue a bit. If it's a cool shadow, I'll change the hue to a slightly cooler hue and do the opposite for a warm highlight.
I do the same thing keeping the HSB tab open all the time. very useful.
I exactly do the same thing with the hues like Shane. Bumping the hue a bit truly helps on the atmosphere.
I love your videos.. I am sad to miss a couple of them cause I don't have more than 24 hrs per day :). This is very very valuable for all you newbies I highly recommend also you might want to pick up Richard Keys "Color Theory The Mechanics of Color" If you can find it. He puts all this in very straightforward means for colors and lighting. Talks about primary, secondary, and complimentary and all that other stuff that you need to have in the back of your head when you are painting in oils or acrylics and trying to blend them. "The more time that you waste the less time that you make money."
Excellent. I love how you cover the most basic basics. So much of this stuff is just taken for granted in other tutorials. I've been sharing these with a lot of people who are just starting out. Wish I'd had them a few years ago.
Another thing to note about color picking and moving in saturation and relative value, and something for another tutorial, is the idea of color temperature, and what happens to say.. a red color as it approaches a hot highlight, or a flame etc...
Anyway.. very nice site and I bought the commercial sets you put out already. keep it up.
Fantastic site! I was just introduced to it today.
HSB is great for finding relative value and saturation but I've always found it troublesome when dealing with relative hue and temperature.
I recently stumbled upon the good old rgb sliders from the olden days. After having dealt with real world paint they seem far more intuitive for that kind of digital color mixing. I've yet to try out using those sliders for a digital painting now, but I'm looking forward to it.
You can play a similar game by laying down what you think (or can colour picker from the image) the local colour is and then try and pick a layer blending mode and colour to try and replicate cold shadows (for example multiply layer 80% blue) or warm light (for example overlay layer 50% orange).
Its less traditional* and more digital and probably a bit harder but its quite good because it is more similar to the way light is actually working.
*I know you can glaze etc but for the sake of argument its not really the same.
Thanks for sharing this stuff I eventually having a hard time about colors and how to mix it..well I might as well apply this when doing some photoshop things in my office, anyway it was a great guide so far.
Any time you are interested in buying a replica rolex watches for sale, how would you make outside whether you're obtaining an genuine or basically a duplicate? Considered as the understanding concerning imported names and also costly Yachtmaster replica this sort of as replica Milgauss watches in India.
Heya, I am just a beginner, but what I like to do when picking out different levels of satuation and light/shadow of an anchor color, it helps using the exact control points in the color picker menu.
What I am referring to is the "H:", "S:" and "B:" that you can enable or disable in the color picker.
This way, you can more accurately use your anchor point and then like Matt explained find the various levels of satuation, light/shadow or even hue that you are looking for.
Love this site, by the way, it is definitely helping me breathe more calmly as I am an utter novice and getting into both traditional and digital drawing is definitely overwhelming me at times! Thanks =)